Oaxaca de Juárez made my soul happy, I’m not sure how else to describe it. Something about the city felt meditative and sensory - like just by being there you could reset, settle into the present, feel more in your body and in the moment. The colours felt brighter. No one was ever in a rush and the people were kinder (maybe those two things correlate). There was a sense of peacefulness and slower pace of life that we could all do with a bit more of these days. Our AirBnb might’ve had a little bit to do with the total relaxation I was able to sink into - could not recommend it more.

Oaxaca City is not only considered one of the Indigenous centres of Mexico, with influences from the Zapotecs, Mixtec, and later, Aztec people, but it is also considered the culinary epicentre of the country. Many of Mexico’s notable national dishes and drinks such as mole, tamales, tejate, and mezcal come from the region.

What I loved about the food scene in Oaxaca is that while there is a great deal of tradition and heritage at play, there is also some incredible experimentation that happens there too. If you’ve read the Mexico City guide, you’ll know of Enrique Olvera of Pujol - the chef behind one of the world’s top restaurants in Mexico City. In Oaxaca City, you’ll find Criollo - his training and test kitchen of sorts for Pujol chefs, to learn the history of the Oaxacan cooking style, and reimagine new approaches to traditional ingredients and recipes. This is the spirit of Oaxaca - leaving room for experimentation in the midst of tradition.

So, if you find yourself in the gastronomic centre of a country - your main priority should be eating and drinking right? Seems like it would be rude to do anything otherwise and who are we to argue on etiquette. Here are a few favourites from this gorgeous town:

Coffee and Pastries

Café Brújula Alcalá

I loved this little cafe, with a charming, quiet courtyard that peaked out into a hazy blue early morning Oaxacan sky. The coffee was delicious and so was the cinnamon bun that I ordered. A wonderful spot to chat with a friend or journal about all the adventures you’re having in Mexico. This location was closer to the Cathedral and Zócalo square but there’s another near the Botanical Gardens.

Boulenc

A must-try in Oaxaca. Boulenc does the most fabulous French sit-down brunch, but is also a bakery and operates a grab-and-go counter where you can pick up some yummies for your day.

Dinners

Casa Oaxaca

A gorgeous rooftop, one of the best and most classic restaurants in the city - Casa Oaxaca is a lovely treat that doesn’t break the bank. For under $100 each, we had a beautiful bottle of Mexican red wine, several appetizers including aguachile, stuffed squash flowers, and the best guacamole that we had in all of Mexico - made tableside. We all opted for the same short rib main, served on a gorgeous array of fruit moles.

El Destilado

Another fantastic dinner spot, with a beautiful rooftop, right by Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzman. Fantastic cocktails made by incredibly friendly bartenders, and really great classic Oaxacan foods. I’m pretty sure I had their special which was a rabbit tostada but they are very well known for their 9-course tasting menu which is apparently amazing.

No photos of the food, but as you can tell, I happily finished it.

Sabina Sabe

We came here after a few drinks at another great spot, Selva, and didn’t eat too much but the vibe was great with live music, it was recommended by a local bartender, and the plate of steak tacos we had honestly melted in your mouth. Sadly I have no photos but take my word for it and check it out!

Don Juanito

We stumbled into here at 10pm on our first night in Oaxaca as it was just down the road from our AirBnb - turns out it’s a hotspot for the locals and for good reason. Super affordable, local cuisine - I got the pollo mole negro, which I’ve thought about many times since… probably my favourite mole that I had in Mexico.

Drinks

Selva Cocktail Bar

A world’s top 50 bar, we felt very lucky to stumble into Selva and snag a table without a reservation. It was a great experience, on our first night out in Oaxaca - great drinks, great service, a beautiful atmosphere… it feels almost like a New York speakeasy, tucked away on the second floor in a small Mexican town. Sadly no photos of the drinks… but mine was rimmed with PopRocks. Enough said.

Oaxaca Brewing Co.

Honestly - I know this list should probably include a mezcaleria but mezcal doesn’t sit great with me so we tended to just go to restaurants that had great cocktails, Selva, or this brewery… which was great. Although I love Mexican cervezas, I don’t typically associate Mexico with craft beer. It was a nice change of pace after a few weeks of tequila.

Cheap, Hotspots for Traditional Oaxacan Food

La Popular: best spot for casual dining & drinks, definitely the local watering hole

La Biznaga: the margaritas! And hibiscus cones and squash bloom quesadillas

Tacos de Comal Plaza del Carmen: a fave among local chefs and one of the most famous street stands in Oaxaca City

Cabuche: Get the pozole - cheap, filling and delicious

Tierra del Sol Casa Restaurante: famous for mole (30 different kinds)

Lechoncito de Oro: amazing for drunk tacos and roasted suckling pig is the specialty

Chefinita: a famous taco truck - we got so much food here… tacos and pozole

Memelas Dona Vale: from Netflix Street Food - makes iconic Oaxacan memelas

Restaurante Coronita: special mole tasting flight

La Atoleria Masea: Famous for their atole drink

Things to Do

A Cooking Class: No better place to learn classic Mexican recipes

A mezcal tour: Head out to the fields for the day to see how the classic Mexican spirit is made, and soak up the gorgeous Oaxacan landscape

A market day: tour around the many shops and local stands at Mercado 20 de Noviembre, Mercado Benita Juarez , Oaxaca Artisan Market, and Mercado de la Merced. Benita Juarez is my favourite - there are lots of great juice stands and I’d recommend getting a big cup of a mango, passionfruit, or strawberry juice.

Wander around the downtown: It’s not large - you will be able to cover it pretty easily and see all the local landmarks… Jardin Etnobotanico de Oaxaca, Templo de Santo Domingo, Plaza de la Constitución, Catedral Metropolitana de Oaxaca

Check out the local shops: I loved perusing Galería Gabinete Gráfico and MEXCHIC.

In summary - you don’t need a lot of time in Oaxaca but if you need a reset, time to reconnect to yourself, or even your partner… this is an extraordinarily peaceful place to do it.